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This part of the Maremman hills, which borders Tuscia, has shown a very diversified climatic trend recently. In a few short years, there have been extreme drought – parts of 2016 and 2017 – and high temperatures, but also floods – 2012 and 2014 – and unusual temperatures far below the average. Continue reading…

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Vinitaly 2017: Fattoria La Maliosa’s Procanico selected for the “rare wines tasting”, led by Ian D’Agata

Now in its sixth year at Vinitaly. Italy’s most important wine fair, Fattoria La Maliosa’s constant commitment to the preservation of the Tuscan Maremma’s historical native and rare vine varieties has been rewarded. At 3pm on April 9 at Verona Fiere, Ian D’Agata, one of the world’s leading experts of Italian indigenous grape varieties and the author of Native Wine Grapes of Italy, the only book written by an Italian to have won the Louis Roederer International Wine Awards’ Book of the Year, will lead a tasting of just 18 wines and one grappa. The selection criteria was based on rarity and representation of the entire national territory. A choice that unites varieties with very different oenological potential, but with the same necessity to be safeguarded safeguards in within Italian germplasm conservation.

To be awarded is the work of the Associazione Nazionale Donne del Vino, which has stood out for its defence of the heritage of rare Italian varieties as an element of diversity useful in shaping the oenological identity and bringing more attractiveness for wine tourism and wine territories. “It is one of the greatest tasting of its kind ever carried out” – explains President Cinelli Colombini – and will have an extraordinary audience that includes Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers, buyers and journalists from around the world, led by one of the world’s leading experts of indigenous Italian grapes: Ian D’Agata. It’s a memorable event that’s never before been realized. It represents a milestone in the rediscovery of lesser known and endangered Italian grape varieties”. Continue reading…

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Fattoria la Maliosa is located between the basins of the Fiora and Albegna Rivers (province of Grosseto, Tuscany) and has highly diverse origins: it’s located in a typically hilly area with important morphological diversity including the stratification that composes it. In addition, the geological history of our territory developed over a very long period of time between 10 million and 10,000 years ago, that is, between the Lower Miocene to Upper Pleistocene Epochs.

The whole area is the result of significant waterway flooding. The crucial training element is the large marine-type sedimentary basin where the highest hills are the backbone and the surrounding areas, the deep-sea shallows.

15832492721_d38fd99a91_o Continue reading…

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What is Maremma?

It’s a place of amazing and haunting beauty, casually unscathed by decades of speculation that ravaged Italian landscapes. The Maremma: forgotten, thus saved. A place where you end up by chance, but where you want to come back, a place which pulls you by the sleeve and you are willingly held back. Which amazes you every time you come back, with its breathtaking scenery appearing at every turn of the road. It makes you feel that little twinge of nostalgia in your chest whenever you leave. EVERY time you leave.

And this happens before you even discover the artistic treasures, the villages in which life is as from another era, the “km-zero” food cooked in an exquisite way by women who have learned from their mothers and grandmothers. And then, small hidden wineries which surprisingly export to Japan and the US, charming farms offering hospitality, but also sophisticated services at the top of their industry, such as Michelin-starred restaurants, spas, championship golf courses. Also, roads that wind through the silence and seem to be made for cycling fans, trails for horseback rides in the wildest of nature that can last for hours or even days.
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On the road to La Maliosa

8.45 am: I’m meeting Antonella at her place.

We’re leaving. We leave behind a rainy Milano not giving up to spring. I’ve never been to Maremma, except for passing through. I’ve never been to Fattoria La Maliosa.
For months we’ve been trying to organize it with Antonella Manuli, Dominique Mosca and Enrico Bachechi, but with Milano rhythms it’s not easy. In the meantime I had heard the stories, uploaded pictures on Flickr imagined it through the words of the entire team taking care of this precious reality.
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In viaggio verso la Fattoria La Maliosa
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We don’t inherit the earth

Every time I hear someone speak poetically or idyllically about wine and farming, I smile.
My smile is one that stems from bitterness and grows from a knowledge that has developed over the seven years that I have been engaged in an investment that sees me invested on every front.
As for the idealized image of the farmer who tastes wine in his homestead overlooking the rolling hills, I am always skeptically puzzled. Of course, there are farmers who have inherited their land and maybe also have a homestead and maybe they’re not really farmers, but the old families of great companies and huge agricultural estates.

In the Maremma, many small owners inherited land from their parents, but these same parents were sharecroppers, who received the land from Ente Maremma after the war. I think it was a good decision that among other things protected the aesthetic and natural value of the territory, which was not abandoned like so many other places in Italy.
But the reality is that this land has never been enough to live on. To appease the hunger, yes, to have a roof overhead, yes, but never enough to pay the bills, taxes and children’s education. After all that, the farmer must still work for others. 

I became a ‘farmer’ seven years ago, when La Maliosa was born. I am a farmer who lives in Milan, who doesn’t hoe the ground. I am an entrepreneur, but I’m not any less of a farmer.
Because if this soil, after being abandoned for decades, is reborn, is alive and continues to prosper, providing wonderful products with a gratitude that surprises every day, it’s the fruit of my labor and my initiative. I know that might sound pigheaded, but anyone who knows me knows that I am proud to have returned to the surrounding territory a healthy and wholesome ecosystem, thanks to my decision to use biodynamic farming. But what is the key to living off land you haven’t inherited?

The soil must produce riches for those who own it, those who work on it and everyone in the surrounding territory, otherwise it will remain a dream and like all dreams, end with a very rude awakening.
The company will need to increase production, create new services and the team will need to grow together.
La Maliosa has taken up a challenge and wants to beat it. If we succeed, everyone wins.

Antonella Manuli

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Fattoria La Maliosa

I’ve always craved the contact with the earth. I ferociously love the smell of grass. Not its fragrance, its smell: the smell of wet soil, of soil burned by the sun and the silent impact natural elements produce when clashing.
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Altalena affacciata sulla Maremma
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